All Pets Ed News 

#5 January-March 2019

Welcome to the All Pets Ed quarterly newsletter.

CASE STUDY: Bonnie and Bailey - interdog aggression

Meet Bonnie and Bailey, two beautiful blue female staffies.  I first met them just over 2 years ago, for interdog aggression issues.  They were fighting with arousal and excitement.  

Fighting in dogs that are the same breed, sex and within 3 years of age of each other is common, especially as one or both approach the age of 18months-2years and reach social maturity.

So what did we do?  First I want to say that the girls parents are amazing, and follow through with all that is suggested.  

We started with a thorough veterinary examination including blood work to rule out underlying biochemical reasons.  Next we ensured separation after an incident of up to a week to allow the adrenaline and cortisol levels to return to normal.

We also implemented many things including management techniques that could be used to redirect them if their owners could predict an incident may be about to occur.

This included mat/station/place training, target training, crate training, leave it, muzzle training and impulse control work.  

​Take the time to follow the girls on Instagram @bonnieandbailey_

Impulse control (also known as stimulus control) is incredibly useful, and by using the name game the girls learn that they can wait to be cued to do something and in doing so will be reinforced for their patience.  This means that the drive to "butt" in is greatly reduced or completely remedied.
Read More

Training Exercise -  Crate Training 

For further information than in this quick summary - please ask for handout #11

Your dog will need to be crated many times during it’s life – including things such as visits to the groomers, vet clinic, and kennels.
To any that are new to the idea of confining your dog in such a small space, this can seem like a cruel thing to do.  Trust me; my initial thoughts were the same.  However, once a dog is crate trained properly – this means not just stuffing them in and shutting the door, but taking the time to train them in a positive step by step approach.   If you put the effort in, you will see the benefits of having a crate trained dog. 
My dogs all love their crates – in fact if I can’t find them, I can almost guarantee they will be curled up in a crate (possibly 2 or more in a crate together).  I love that my dogs love their crates!
When a dog has been properly crate trained, they will find that the crate is their safe place – somewhere to go when it all gets too much.

What other benefits are there?

  • Makes toilet training so much easier.
  • Creates a portable safe space for your dog – you can take it with you to friends places, camping etc.
  • Makes for safer car travel – especially for the bouncy dogs and those that can wiggle out of car harnesses.
  • Management tools when you are unable to provide your full attention – for example when people visit (especially children), when you are making dinner, or when you are away from home for a few hours.
  • Management tool for multi-dog households.
  • Your dog will be better able to manage in unfamiliar situations – vet clinic and groomer.

What type of crate?
There are many crates available on the market, including soft sided canvas collapsible crates with zipper closures, wire collapsible crates with more sturdy door closures, and airline suitable crates that are plastic travel crates with wire door – they do not collapse.

I like them all, however use my wire crates daily both at home and at workplaces and also have a spare in the car for the “just in case I pick up a stray dog crate”.
Depending on your intentions, you may just need one type, or like me you may end up with all 3.
If you are starting crate training I always recommend either the wire or the plastic.  They are more sturdy and it is easier to begin shutting the door and opening the door for rewarding rather than zipping and unzipping.  A puppy can easily chew or dig and damage a soft sided canvas crate.
If you have no intention of flying with your dog – start off with the wire crate.
Once your dog is crate trained you will be able to use any of the types.

The soft sided canvas crates are great if you are going to be taking it from one place to another. They collapse and are very light in comparison to the other types.
When choosing your crate – choose a crate that is just larger than your dog – your dog should be able to sit, stand, turn around and lie down, but not so large they can toilet at one end and move to the other end to escape it.

Setting the crate up.

  • Set the crate up in a quiet area, but close to where the family spends a lot of time.
  • In the crate place some soft bedding, a safe chew toy, water (in a non-spill bowl or on a bowl attached to the side of the crate).

Let’s start crate training.

  • Toss a few high value food rewards in the crate and see if your dog will enter on their own. If he/she does, toss more in. We want this to be a super rewarding place.  Don’t block the exit.
  • Start feeding all meals from the crate – using kongs or food dispensing toys will increase the duration that they are in the crate.  You can tie the kong to the back corner of the crate – this will mean to eat the kong the dog will need to stay in the crate, and in doing so is rewarded by the kong itself for this choice.  For most dogs this will also reward the dog for laying down as 9 out of 10 lay down to eat the kong.
  • Once the dog is comfortably following the lure in to the crate, reward with high value rewards dropped through the top of the crate away from the door.  Wait  for the dog to finish, and then lure the dog out of the crate with some low value food rewards.  Repeat this 10 times.   On the 10th time, lure the dog out, and reward with low value.  And then wait – don’t lure, hint, lean etc toward the crate, just stand up straight near the crate and ready to reward when the dog goes in.  Jackpot the dog with multiple high value rewards and calm praise (get excited but not too excited) when they choose to offer to go in the crate by themselves without the lure.
  • The next is to build up duration in the crate, increase criteria or door closures etc.  This takes time.  We need to teach this so that the crate is the most valuable place to be.
  • Never use the crate as punishment.

Article of Interest - Fireworks!

Has your dog shown fear during previous Fireworks displays? 

With New Years Eve and Australia Day celebrations approaching - there will be plenty of fireworks around.  Have a read and make preparations now for your pets.

Has he/she shown any of the following signs when fireworks have occurred (even when you can’t hear them)?


  • Shaking/trembling
  • Pacing
  • Panting
  • Drooling
  • Dilated pupils
  • Whining
  • Escaping
  • Cowering/hiding
  • Unable/Unwilling to eat

If so, it is likely that your dog has a fear of fireworks. 

A fear of fireworks in dogs is not uncommon.  Let’s face it, why wouldn't they be scared of the noisy, bright, unpredictable lights.  This fear can continue to escalate and get worse.  Unfortunately, your dog may escape your house/yard and is at danger or becoming lost, injured or even killed.

But all hope is not lost.  You can put things in place to help you and your pooch.

Keep Reading

Treat Test - Fish Tail

We love these Fish Tails.  They are super tasty (well that's what the dogs have me believe anyhow) and last a reasonable length of time - they are surprisingly big :)

We got ours from Chew Chomp and Chill. 

Toy Recommendation - Snuffle 'ems - snuffle mats

We love our new snuffle mat made by Des Souter.  These are enrichment feeding items designed for use with dry food/dry treats.

They are great for dogs that may be new to enrichment, have limited mobility, loving sniffing etc, as well as dogs that are experienced with enrichment (as mine are).

You can also use them in the vet clinic, the car etc to help reduce stress and anxiety associated with locations, procedures or travel.

If you would like to purchase one contact Des on 0418 742 941

Photo provided by Kim and Fiona.

Pets and Technology - Drinking Fountains

Does your pet have a bowl or a fountain?

Did you know that drinking fountains encourage animals (especially cats) to drink and have been linked with a reduction in urinary tract issues in male cats.

We have drinkwell fountains for both the dogs and the cats.  The water runs and recycles through it.  It is cooler than just sitting in the bowl and also is pushed through filters to help remove impurities so provides cleaner, fresher tasting water.

These two fountains are available at Chew Chomp and Chill.

Important Dates

31/12/2018 New Years Eve Fireworks
01/01/2019 New Years Day
12/01/2019 RSPCA Pop Up Adoption - Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre
26/01/2019 Australia Day

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